Of the many, many places to see in Istanbul, The Basilica Cistern (or Yerebatan Sarnıcı
in Turkish) is my favourite. It’s the largest of the several hundred
ancient sub-terranean cisterns in Istanbul, and I absolutely love how
it’s so different from all other top attractions in Istanbul.
Unlike the grand mosques with minarets that soar up to the sky and
define the skyline of the city, the cistern is underground—concealed,
invisible if you don’t look close enough. And in contrast to the bright
and airy royal palaces, the cistern is dark—full of shadows and
whispers, even ominous in certain parts. And although different from
the other popular tourist attractions, it does not fall behind with its
rich history, architectural details, and overall ability to impress:
About the size of a cathedral, the cistern has over 300 columns lit by
yellow light just soft enough to encourage an overall hushed mood in the
space, and bright enough to cast ghostly reflections on the water. If
you look closely, you may see families of carps ducking in and out of
the shadows cast by the towering columns. On hot summer days like when
we visited, the cistern stays cool (around 10-12ºC is my guess) which is
a welcome respite from the noise, the crowds, and the heat above
ground.
Although the forest of columns are undeniably breathtaking, visitors
should not miss the the Medusa column bases in the northeast corner of
the cistern. All columns, capitals, and bases were salvaged from
different temples during the time of construction (6th century) and it
is not known where the Medusa heads were originally from. Judging from
the intricacy of the carving (images below), it’s safe to say that they
were from skilled hands and artistry of the Byzantine Empire.
And finally, a dorky side note: The Basilica Cistern is also a must-visit for anyone who knows Ezio Auditore and Robert Langdon; your visit will surely be a mix of awe and giddiness.
As a photographer, it’s very difficult to take photographs of the
cistern without a tripod, otherwise you will need to increase your ISO
and eventually ruin your photos. Such was my fate during our visit,
unfortunately. But a few came out right, and here are five photos that
I’m quite proud of:
The breathtaking forest of columns – there are over 300 in the entire cavern
The columns arranged in incredible symmetry – viewed from the side
Medusa’s head used as a column base – possibly inverted to negate the power of the Gorgons’ gaze
A closer look at the sideways Medusa’s head – such stunning detail
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