Barcelona: Modern or Modernista

Being in the heart of Catalonia—the birthplace/home of the Modernisme movement, it’s no wonder that the city hosts the best Modernista pieces in the world.  Gauid’s La Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló and La Pedrera are probably the most iconic in the world:

MODERNISTA BARCELONA

A (very welcome) mistake during a recent trip showed me a different side—the modern side.  I was taking Mom around the city and have bought Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) bus tickets so she can see the city in the comfort of an upper deck bus seat.  Instead of getting on the West Route (a favorite amongst tourists), we got on the East Route by mistake.  And what we saw is simply spectacular:  Some of the most beautiful modern buildings in all of Europe.  Sharp angles, unique shapes, unconventional colours and even architectural illusions:

MODERN BARCELONA

PRBB : Parc de Recerca Biomèdica de Barcelona

Ritz Carlton’s Hotel Arts Barcelona

Frank O. Gehry’s fish sculpture

All other “flatiron” buildings in this world pale in comparison to Barcelona’s Torre Telefónica-Diagonal 00

Forum Building also known as Museu Blau de les Ciències Naturals

Left: Habitat Sky/Hotel ME shaped like a Tetris block; Right: Torre Agbar that lights up entirely with its 4,500 LED lights

If you ever decide to get on the HOHO, make sure to spend some time in the less-popular East Route.  You’ll see a different yet really amazing side of Barcelona.

Cooking class in Barcelona

If you only have a weekend to spend in Barcelona, I will recommend the following itinerary:

Day 1:  Get an overview of the city by visiting all of Barcelona’s highlights—very doable in one day; and
Day 2:  Immerse yourself in a more hands-on activity like learning what the Spaniards possibly do best: cook amazing food.

This is exactly the itinerary we followed on our weekend in Barcelona.  After visiting the must-sees, we spent a big chunk of our second (and last full day) in the city holed up in a bright buzzing kitchen in Barri Gotic, learning the secrets of Spanish cooking.

COOK & TASTE BARCELONA

We booked the activity via Cook & Taste Barcelona.  It was my second time to attend the class—the first time was during my first visit in 2009.  I had a very specific agenda this time around: Learn to cook vegetarian paella.   (Growing up I only knew of paella valenciana with chicken or pork and paella de mariscos with seafood.)

The day started with an 8:30AM trip with the cooking group and our teacher and head Chef Ignacio at La Boqueria.  The trip to the market served both as a quick tour (ideal for those who have not seen it yet), as well as a shopping run.  Whilst there, we bought all the ingredients we will need for our class.

We got back to the kitchen at Barri Gotic at 11AM and the kitchen immediately turned into a flurry of sounds, aromas and activities:  Roasting of vegetables.  Cleaning of mussels.  Beating of eggs.  Searing of fish.  Toasting of saffron.  Torching of sugar.  Chopping.  Slicing.  Dicing.  And drinking of wine—lots and lots of amazing Spanish wine.

After 2 hours, our group has prepared 4 appetizers, 1 dessert and 2 kinds of paella: one big paellera of paella negra, and a small vegetarian paella for KD which he made all by himself and was hands-down the best dish of the day.  :)

Food map of Barcelona

There’s paella, and there’s wet yellow rice with 4 pieces of green peas mixed in.  Although Barcelona is known for amazing delicious food, it’s still not free from restaurants that serve… well… bad, inedible items they try to pass off as food.  ¡Que horror!  After 3 trips to Barcelona, I’ve had my own share of not so exemplary cooking: patatas bravas swimming in oil, rubbery calamares and how can I forget the wet yellow rice with a few pieces of peas labelled  being sold as paella.

But of course there are those really good ones, too.  My knowledge of food stops in Barcelona is by no means comparable to a local’s.  But what I do have is a list of places that I’ve been to and enjoyed.  In your trip to Barcelona, if you ever find yourself in the vicinity of one of these places with your stomach grumbling, this map (followed by short descriptions) may prove to be helpful:

View Larger Map

COFFEE/CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE

Restaurant Bella-Tapa Rambla de Catalunya, 8 08007 Barcelona, Spain

Just off Placa Catalunya, this is the perfect churros con chocolate stop either early in the morning (if you feel like having churros for breakfast), or as a mid-afternoon snack (a.k.a. merienda) whilst you rest your feet after a day of touring.

TAPAS/LUNCH/DINNER

Ciudad Condal Rambla de Catalunya, 18 08007 Barcelona, Spain
Cervecería Catalana Carrer de Mallorca, 236 08008 Barcelona, Spain

If you’re craving for tapas, Ciudad Condal and Cervecería Catalana have a lot to offer.  The restaurants are just a few blocks from each other along Rambla Catalunya.  If you’re walking along La Rambla and feel like having some tapas, ignore all the restaurants along La Rambla and a go a few minutes more towards Rambla Catalunya.  A few more metres of walking will give you tapas, food, service and ambiance that are miles better than those in La Rambla.  I visited both restaurants for dinner and found them packed and buzzing with locals enjoying their famous 11pm dinners that last ’til the wee hours of the morning.

Tapas at Cervecería Catalana

Tapas at Cervecería Catalana

Tapas at Cervecería Catalana

1am at Cervecería Catalana

Ciudad Condal’s patatas bravas

MARKET MEALS

Mercat De La Boqueria La Rambla, 91 08001 Barcelona, Spain
Mercat de Santa Caterina Avinguda de Francesc Cambó, 16 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Cuines Santa Caterina Avinguda de Francesc Cambó, 16 08003 Barcelona, Spain

Getting food straight out of local markets is always a good way to sample authentic local fare.  Be warned, however, that since both La Boqueria and Santa Caterina are in the tourist routes, there are a lot of stalls that sell overpriced fruits, nuts, cakes, etc.  But if you look closely and carefully, you will find offerings that are not only delicious but also quite inexpensive.  If you’re in Santa Caterina, you may also want to consider doing a proper sit-down tapas and cava tasting at Cuines Santa Caterina—I highly recommend pairing the cava with the seafood tapas.

Lots of choices at La Boqueria Market

Cheap snacks that are big in taste

Tapas and cava tasting at Cuines Santa Caterina

BY THE HARBOUR

La Fonda Del Port Olimpic Moll de Gregal, 7 08005 Barcelona, Spain

La Fonda is located around Port Olimpic by Ritz Carlton’s Hotel Arts Barcelona and have a terrace that give you a view of the water without the Ritz’s price tag.  La Fonda and its neighboring restaurants transform their strip of the harbour into one big open air party at night, with the clatter of plates and clinking of glasses as the background music.  It’s a great spot especially on warm summer nights; the constant sea breeze will keep you cool as you dine, or wine, or both.

LA RAMBLA OPTIONS

Restaurante Amathu  La Rambla, 73 08002 Barcelona, Spain
Restaurant Centonze La Rambla, 111 08002 Barcelona, Spain

If you can help it, time your trip so hunger does not hit you whilst you’re at La Rambla.  The street is just filled with sub-par food offerings catering to the undiscerning tourist.  Caught in the middle of an anomalous downpour and achy feet in the middle of La Rambla, KD and I walked into Amathu and we were actually pleasantly surprised by the food.  It doesn’t come anywhere close to all other items in this list but we expected worse.  If you have more budget, the better option is to go to Centonze—Le Meridien Hotel’s in-house restaurant.  We had late lunch at Centonze when we stayed at Le Meridien in 2009.  Its food is the best in all of La Rambla (based on my experience), but of course you must expect five-star prices.

Amathu’s tapas were not shabby at all

BEST PAELLA IN BARCELONA — FIT FOR ROYALTY

7 Portes Paseo Isabel II, 14 08003 Barcelona, Spain

In 2009, my sister and I went on paella mission in Barcelona.  The mission was simple:  to have paella for every meal of every day of our 6-day stay in the city.  We stuck to this all the way to the airport where we had very bad “pasta paella” right before we boarded our flight.  By the time we got back home to Toronto, it felt like our blood has turned to paella.  Yet our mission failed—we did not find the paella that we were looking for.

You’re sitting on the king’s chair!

It was not until 2012, following a tip from a local cabbie and a bunch of Filipino waiters, that we found out about 7 Portes.  The restaurant is beautifully elegant complete with a live pianist, the service was top notch, and the paella was fit for a king.  Literally.  Towards the end of my dinner at 7 Portes with my mother, a lady from the table next to us asked if she can have a photo taken at my seat.  Apparently, I was sitting exactly where King Juan Carlos I of Spain sat when he dined at the restaurant.  Other famous illustrious diners include Queen Sofia, Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Salvador Dali.  And I should make it clear, the paella is the best I’ve ever had.

Left: Beautiful dining room of 7 Portes with a live pianist; Right: Over 175 years of amazing Spanish cooking

Best paella in Barcelona – 7 Portes

Crema Catalan at 7 Portes

King Juan Carlos I shiny seat plaque

Our receipt confirms that we shared the table with the king

Save in Praktik Rambla Barcelona

The name suggests it quite clearly:  Praktik Rambla is a very practical choice for accommodations in Barcelona.  The location is great, service exceeds expectations and the hotel is beautifully designed with Modernista touches all over.  The best part?  The price:  With double-occuancy rooms going for around €77 per night, this hotel is a real steal for what it has to offer.

GREAT LOCATION

Located at Rambla Catalunya, the hotel is right smack in the heart of Barcelona.  Feel like having tapas?  It’s across the street.  Want to sit on a bench in front of Gaudi’s Casa Batlló and whilst drinking an after-dinner cup of coffe?  It’s around the corner.  Can’t live without your Starbucks drink?  It’s down the street, on the first right.  Want to do some Zara shopping?  Oh, it’s dangerously close.  Cabs are at your doorstep and public transit is also nearby.  Everything you’ll want is literally steps away.  To give you an idea:

Tapas (Ciudad Condal) – 100m practically across the street
Churros con chocolate (Bella-Tapa Restaurant)  - 220m
Starbucks – 240m
Metro/Subway – 280m
Zara – 300m
Plaça Catalunya – 350m
Gaudi’s Casa Batlló – 450m
La Rambla – 500m

View Larger Map

Restaurants seen from the balcony

AMAZING SERVICE

The staff of Praktik Rambla were very warm and welcoming—traits that I find common not just in Spanish hotels but from the Spaniards overall.  What I really appreciated though, is their flexibility.  On the last day of my trip to Barcelona with my parents, we were scheduled to check out at 12PM but our flight out won’t be for another 6 hours.  My father was suffering for high blood pressure and could not join my mother and I on the touring that we’ve planned that day.  I asked the front desk to extend our stay.  I inquired about the additional cost and they kindly offered a significant discount given our situation.  This flexibility is a real rarity in Europe.

View of the front desk from the 3rd floor; everyone who enters the hotel enjoys this sun-drenched atrium

Modernista decor in the sun-filled atrium where you can choose to take the elevator or staircase up

BEAUTIFUL DECÓR

Hotel Praktik Rambla’s website calls themselves a cross between a hostel and a design hotel but to me, they’re a straight up design hotel.  End of story.  The only suggestion of a hostel is perhaps reflected in their very affordable rates but otherwise, the hotel’s design and ambience could rival some of the best boutique hotels out there.

Simple, modern and clean combined with Modernista accents such as the ornate balcony and colourful tiles

Simple, modern and clean combined with Modernista accents such as the ornate balcony and colourful tiles

Beautiful details everywhere from the ceilings, archways, light fixtures, doors, walls and windows

Beautiful details everywhere from the ceilings, archways, light fixtures, doors, walls and windows

VALUE FOR YOUR MONEY

With all of the above considered, it’s unbelievable that the nightly rate for double occupancy is around €77 per night (as of 27 January 2013).  This rate is much lower than other 3-star hotels in the area.  I can even say that the overall experience is comparable to 5-star Le Meridien at La Rambla where I spent 3 nights back in 2009.  With money saved in accommodations, you’ll be able to enjoy more of beautiful Barcelona.

Splurge in Hotel Arts Barcelona

When was the last time you splurged?  That long ago?  Cannot even remember? Let Hotel Arts Barcelona remind you what a splurge can look like.  Click the photos to enlarge:

Booking a stay at Hotel Arts Barcelona is a sure-fire way of adding a bit or a lot of splurge to your itinerary.  Located in Barcelona’s beachfront, the Hotel Arts will give you the most beautiful views of the Mediterranean and the marina.  With a Michelin-starred restaurant onsite, you can be assured that you will be treated to only the finest of Catalan cuisine.  And being a Ritz Carlton hotel, guests can expect nothing but the absolute best in style and service.

Combining my visit in 2009 and my most recent trip, I picked my 5 favourite things about Hotel Arts:

Clockwise from left: The beautiful pool and sun loungers at sunset; view of Frank O. Gehry’s fish sculpture; my sister in the gigantic hammock; the view of the marina; me enjoying a flute of Spanish cava

1.  The pool.  Hotel Arts’ pool gives you a view of the marina in one side, the Mediterranean in another, and Frank O. Gehry’s fish sculpture in the other.  Whichever side you pick will be beautiful.  Now, choosing to lie on the sun lounger or the gigantic hammock will be the tougher decision to make.

2.  Pampering pool service:  Spending 3 full days at a catatonic state in the pool area gave me an idea of how the staff spoilt the sun-bathing guests.  Almost every hour, looking so fresh and summery in their white-and-khakis, a member of the pool staff goes around with a bucket of cold fruit slices.  Or a tray of ice-cold mango juice shakes.  Or a basket of cold face towels.  If you’re lucky, you’ll be offered a flute of golden cava.  Yum!  My favourite part is when a Prince Harry look-a-like went around offering everyone a spritz of Evian to freshen up the face.

“Evian?” asked Prince Harry.

I saw one too many ladies flash their most beautiful smile, flirtingly close their eyes, and pucker their lips as they prepared themselves for a five-star spritz.  I personally could not do it.  I figured if I needed to freshen up, I can simply jump into the pool.  But it was amusing, nevertheless, getting pampered when all the exhausting work you’re doing is really laying there soaking up some sun.

Left: Romantic bath lighting at a flick of a switch; the light and shade control panel at the nightstand

3. Baño romantico.  I admit, this one’s more for the ladies.  Meaning “romantic bath” in English, this was the label on one of the light switches for the bathroom.  I love that with a flick of a switch, the bright bathroom transforms into a dimly lit relaxing sanctuary that’s ideal for a warm bubble bath.  All that’s really missing is a switch for Javier Bardem.

4.  Nightstand control panel.  On one of the bedside tables is a control panel a la Captain Kirk’s.  It lets you control the brightness of the various light sources in the massive room.  The best part?  The switch that controls the shades.  Just in case you feel like having a quick siesta and turn sunny Barcelona to pitch-black, you can do that just by pressing a button just like in the video.

5.  Exceptional room service.  We had some leftover paella and wanted to have them reheated.  Since there was no microwave in the room, we asked if the hotel kitchen can re-heat it for us.  Styrofoam container in plastic bag, we handed it to someone from the hotel staff who came to pick it up.  About 10 minutes later, he came back with a cart and on top of it was a crystal plate with our leftover paella in it, beautifully plated, with extra garnish, and yes, re-heated.  So unexpected, hence so appreciated.

Here’s a little peek at the suites and two-storey apartments, as well as the magical window shade in action: